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Archive for the ‘home-and-garden’ Category

How To Restore Old Wood Furniture

By AlyciaHartzell On February 9, 2010 No Comments

Restoring an old piece of wooden furniture can be an involved and tedious process, so it is important to determine what kind of work is truly necessary before you begin. An inexperienced do-it-yourselfer may look at a blemished piece of furniture and assume that it needs to be refinished, when in fact a touch-up may be just as effective (and a whole lot less time-consuming). In many cases, a thorough cleaning and waxing may be all it takes to turn that dull, worn-out table into a rich and lustrous centerpiece once more!

Cleaning the Furniture

Regardless of the level of restoration needed, it is important to carefully and properly clean your furniture. Even if you ultimately plan to refinish the piece, it is essential to remove the dirt, dust and oil that has built up over the years beforehand. If the furniture does not contain any surface scratches or cracks in the finish, you may even find that a thorough cleaning is all it takes to restore its beauty and luster, as dirt and grime can often give the illusion of worn-off finish.

An oil-based wood cleaner should be sufficient for the job and can be easily found in supermarkets or home improvement stores. When cleaning, it is important to use a soft cloth or sponge and to apply the cleaner evenly, using strokes that go with the grain. After application, allow the cleaner to dry for a couple hours before wiping it off with a new cloth. Please note that, depending on the state of your furniture, this process may need to be repeated several times.

If commercial wood cleaner doesn’t do the trick, a solution of warm water and a little bit of liquid detergent or vegetable-based oil soap can be used. Just be sure to apply, rinse, and dry quickly, as you want to avoid water damage to the wood.

Once your furniture has been cleaned, you may decide that refinishing isn’t necessary after all. If this is the case, it is recommended that you wax and buff the wood in order to protect the finish and give it a nice shine.

Retouching vs. Refinishing

If you decide that your wooden furniture is in need of more than just a thorough cleaning, you will need to determine whether you want to refinish the entire piece, or simply retouch sections of it. Here are some guidelines to help you figure out which option is appropriate:

Problems That Require Refinishing:

  • Deep cracks and gouges that go down to the wood

  • Dark spots in the wood beneath the finish that show through

  • The finish is oily or sticky, even after a thorough cleaning

  • The finish has flaked off in large patches

  • You wish to change the color of the furniture

  • Problems That Can Be Fixed By Retouching:

  • Shallow scratches or nicks in the finish

  • Cracking or crazing in the finish

  • Finish that has become discolored due to moisture

  • Retouching can save a lot of time by eliminating the need to refinish the entire piece, but remember that it only works for restoring damage to the finish itself. If a scratch or crack is deep enough to penetrate the wood, then your furniture will need to be refinished.

    Retouching

    There are many techniques for retouching the finish of wood furniture, depending on the type of problem you’re dealing with.

    For finish that has been discolored by age, water damage, or prolonged exposure to humidity-known as \”blushing\” – it is recommended that you lightly rub the surface of the wood with No. 0000 steel wool that has been dipped in a vegetable-based oil such as linseed oil. This acts as an abrasive that removes the damaged top layer of the finish. It is important to rub slowly, lightly and evenly, so as not to cut through the finish entirely and down to the wood. Once the blushing has been removed, buff the surface with a hard furniture wax.

    If your finish has minor scratches or cracks, you can avoid refinishing the entire piece by using a retouching process known as reamalgamation. This is essentially a process whereby the original finish is turned back into a liquid, evenly redistributed over the wooden surface, and then allowed to dry. The chemical(s) used for reamalgamation depend on the type of finish your furniture has, so it is crucial to research this ahead of time. Please note that this process will only work on shellac or lacquer finishes-not on varnish.

    Refinishing

    If you find that the damage to your furniture is too deep to be repaired via retouching, refinishing may indeed be necessary. In order to give your piece a new finish, you will first have to remove the old one with a chemical stripper. The stripper should be generously applied to the furniture with a natural bristle paintbrush, as the chemicals will dissolve synthetic bristles. When working with powerful chemicals, it is necessary to use proper safety precautions, such as gloves and goggles, and to work outside if possible to avoid overexposure to strong fumes.

    After the original finish has been stripped, it is a good idea to sand down the wood. This will remove any remaining finish as well as ensure a smooth and even surface on which to apply the new stain or paint.

    The kind of stain you can use will vary depending on the type of wood you’re working with, so it is important to ensure that the two are compatible. In addition to researching this information ahead of time, it may be a good idea to test your wood stain on a small, inconspicuous area of the furniture to see how it will look. If satisfied, you can then apply it to the entire piece.

    If you intend to paint your wooden furniture rather than stain it, it is best to use a glossy oil paint, as other types of paint will not adhere properly to the wood surface.


    About The Author:
    Alycia Hartzell is a seasoned design professional with experience in both residential and commercial interior design. She writes for Domestic Modern – a leading retailer of modern rugs and designer collections such as Amy Butler Rugs. Learn more at: http://www.domesticmodern.com/


    Read more of Alycia Hartzell’s articles.


    Your Own Home Flower Garden

    By LuannHays On January 28, 2010 No Comments

    When you buy a new house you want to have an amazing garden where your children can play, and you can sit back and unwind. A garden is one place where we feel we are one with nature, and can enjoy the small pleasures of life. But without a few container plants and lots of flowers, a home garden is not complete. Before you choose the plants that you will grow in your home garden, walk around the neighborhood, and take note of what kinds of plants are already growing. This will give you an idea of what grows well, and how it will look in your own garden.

    When planning your garden, be aware of the blooming season of the various flowers.. Planting perennials with different blooming times will insure a garden that flowers all season long. Remember also to plan for the height of the plants, putting the taller ones in the back so they do not hide the others.

    Bad soil conditions, or wrong nutrients can keep flowers from growing well, and could even kill them. Areas that don’t drain well, or where water pools after a rain, should be avoided when planting, as the roots can root. A soil with a pH range of 6.0 to 7.4 is best for most annuals. Before you start work with your garden beds, test the pH with a home soil test kit. If the pH is less than 6 or acidic add lime sulfur as required to bring the pH up. However, if the pH is above 7.4 you will want to add ammonium nitrate. After the pH is in the proper range, spread 2 to 3 inches of compost, and cultivate it at least 8 to 12 inches deep. This will create the best possible environment for your new plants.

    Give some thought to putting annuals in your perennial garden. Annuals give you season long color, they are easy to propagate, they can be cost effective, and annuals provide that first season interest. If you’re just starting a perennial garden annuals are a great choice to fill in gaps. A new perennial garden can take a couple of years to mature, and can be quit expensive to fill out in just one year, so by adding annuals you can have a very pretty garden even in the first year. Annuals will help to fill in a garden while you wait for the perennials to mature, and even after to fill in gaps.

    You need to select healthy plants if you’ve decided to grow annuals this year. Many people choose to grow their annuals from seed, although this process can be time consuming. Others choose to purchase their plants from a green house. While both ways are acceptable, always remember to choose carefully if you are buying from a green house.

    Deep green plants will grow best, and should be sought out; a spindly plant in a cell-pack, indicates that this pack has been stored for too long, and should be avoided. It is also wise to check for signs of disease by examining the leaves and stems and even removing the plants from their pots to check the roots. Roots should appear firm and white, and contain no spirals or kinks.

    The up side is garden centers are happy to share their information about soil, sunlight, water, and wind shielding requirements for each plant with their customers.

    When planting flowers, it is important to remember to follow the instructions on the tag for the plant. Always consider the conditions in which you want to grow the plants, be sure to buy plants that will thrive in the conditions you have in mind. A plant that loves sun will not do well in a shady area, and you will only be disappointed with the results.

    Spring bulbs work well in a perennial garden. They are the first of the season to bloom, and when they finish some of your perennials will be starting to bloom, and others are filling in and hiding the soon to be dormant foliage of the bulbs. This is a great way to extend the color in your garden well into the summer blooming season.

    For a really natural look you could arrange your bulbs randomly. By tossing the bulbs and planting them where they land, with small adjustments for spacing, your garden will have a much more natural look, as if Mother Nature had planted them herself.. Randomized bulbs look beautiful in any setting. After the bulbs bloom the foliage will die down to make room for later growing plants, therefore, you can spread bulbs around with other types of plants for a carefree and beautiful garden.

    Summer bulbs such as Dahlias are a great chose to fill in areas that need color after the early perennials have finished. Keep in mind that most summer bulbs will need to be dug up and stored over the winter. The good news is that you can redesign your garden by rearranging these bulbs the next year.

    If you want plants that will do well growing against a wall as a cover, or on a trellis or arch, there are many choices including:

  • clematis

  • wisteria

  • climbing hydrangea

  • golden hop

  • star jasmine

  • Clematis is a variety that produces purple, pink or blue colored, bell shaped flowers with fern like leaves. Wisteria is a hardy climbing plant that boasts lilac colored flowers that grow in hanging clusters, before the foliage sprouts. Star Jasmine, my personal favorite of these climbing plants, produces leather like, dark green leaves with beautiful white blossoms that have an unmatched, abundant fragrance.

    Planting wild flowers, or simply scattering wild flower seeds around an area of your yard are both ways to take advantage of Mother Nature’s treasured gifts. Wild flowers are carefree, colorful, and tend to attract bees, butterflies and birds. So planting wild flowers not only gives you an easy maintenance flower garden, it also promises to be a constant source of interesting activity throughout the year.

    Follow these simple bits of advice and keep your garden in glorious bloom all summer long.


    About The Author:
    Luann Hays runs 2 website that offer special items for women. Go to Woozita’s Wares for sexy lingerie and much more. Send Flowers Online, find fresh cut flowers, gift baskets and unique gifts. Visit http://www.woozita.com/ and http://www.flowers-online-flowers.com/ respectively, to learn more.



    Planning A New Home Design

    By AnnieDeakin On January 24, 2010 No Comments

    If you are about to begin the exciting process of building a new home there are several items of home design that you should take into consideration.

    First, there is the choice of the correct floor plan. As you look at the floor plan design, look to see that there are plenty of bedrooms as well as bathrooms for your family. In addition, consider the amount of living space in the home. Will it meet your needs?

    A home design should also make mechanical sense. Plumbing should be kept close together to prevent costs from skyrocketing. There should be a location that is close to bathrooms for the water heater. The furnace should be in a central location.

    How many stories will you build the house? One story offers easiest access to all the rooms, but two stories offer more square footage at a lower price. Since foundations and roofing is shared these costs are reduced in the two story home. Additionally, a two story home can takes up less of the yard space so there will be more room for outdoor living.

    As you plan your home, be sure that you include accommodations for special needs of your family. Stairs are often a problem for one or more members of the family, so if building a two story home, be sure to provide downstairs bedrooms for that family member, even if it means that the master suite has to be located on the lower floor. Kitchens should always be planned on the ground floor in order to make them accessible for stocking.

    You may want to add a basement to your home. An unfinished basement is a great place for storage and mechanical equipment for the home. Finished basements add more living space and are good for extra bedrooms or game rooms.

    After choosing the floor plan, look at the exterior design of your new home. The exterior design will determine if your home is Modern, Tudor, Colonial or some other style. Each of these homes can have a similar floor plan.

    When building the home you will find that there are several other items that have to do with home design that are found. For example, you will have to decide the finish for walls, ceilings and floors.

    The home is not finished until it has also been landscaped. Look for shrubs and trees that fit with the home design and are the right choices for your climate. By choosing the right trees and shrubs you can have a very nice looking garden and yard.

    You may wish to consult with design consultants about your home. If you decide to make the decisions by yourself, be sure that you do your research. Spend time reading about home design in books, magazines and online. Take time to tour your city to see what works and what does not work. If you have difficulty, do not hesitate to consult a design professional. Their help may speed your completion of that exciting new home.


    About The Author:
    Annie Deakin is an expert furniture and interior design writer. Her current area of specialism is christmas gifts, furniture and kitchen. Learn more at: http://mydeco.com/


    Read more of Annie Deakin’s articles.


    The Dress Code – Five Steps to a Greener Wardrobe

    By JanetDavis On January 24, 2010 No Comments

    In the last few weeks, we’ve discussed a number of healthy ways to live, ranging from proper diet and skin care to the values of recycling and green living. The message of a green lifestyle is simple: We care about our planet, and want to leave it as good as we found it and even better, for our children and for everyone. The wonderful thing about this is that there are countless ways to live green.

    For example, consider the budding green and organic clothing movement. While the idea of organic clothing might sound a bit unusual at first, it really is an extension of the idea of organic food. Clothes are often made from plant materials like cotton, and these can be grown under organic conditions just like food products. With that in mind, here are five ways you can start dressing green.

    Dress Code #1 – Shop Organic

    The most straightforward and quickest way to get into some green attire is to find green and organic clothing outlets. There are literally dozens of such stores online, for a start. A quick Google search for ‘Green Clothing’ comes up with a number of promising hits, such as Fashion and Earth, and White Apricot, both of which have significant green-oriented fashion sections.

    When it comes to local stores there are sometimes fewer choices. Clothing retail markets can be dominated by chain stores or specialized stores catering to specific body types or enthusiast niches. This doesn’t mean there aren’t any such places; just that they may take a bit more digging to find than the online options might call for. However, some chain stores are responding to consumer demands by offering Organic items.

    Dress Code #2 – Make the Most of What You Have

    An important theme in sustainable living is longevity. Buying a new set of organically made shirts for school is a wonderful step, but if it leads you to throw out perfectly usable shirts that you already have available, then how much good has actually been done? Clothes that you already own are a wonderful way to focus on sustainable fashion. They don’t cost you anything extra to buy or require any new materials to make.

    Of course if the clothes don’t fit anyone in the house, there isn’t a great deal of sense in keeping them around just in case. However, there are alternatives to simply scrapping them. If they’re in good condition, consider donating them to a charitable organization. Or, if they’re worn out past the point of decency, they make great scrap material for clothing patches, art projects, or even just washrags.

    Dress Code #3 – Watch How You Wash

    It takes a lot of resources to wash clothes. Apart from the water itself, there’s the energy needed to power the washing machine and dryer, and if you’re doing a hot-water wash that will take up still more electricity. These are resources generated in most cases by fossil fuels, and easing our dependence on these is an important part of living sustainably.

    When shopping for clothes, pick out ones you can run through a cold water wash cycle. During warmer months, air-dry your clothes on clotheslines instead of relying on the dryer. As for the clothes you already have, consider replacing or repurposing the ones that require warm washes first, rather than the cold-wash friendly ones. Also, try to avoid or at least limit the number of outfits that need dry cleaning.

    Dress Code #4 – Shop Smart, Save Money

    We can save and reuse what outfits we already have, but we’re eventually going to need to get new clothes. If we want to choose green fashions, it sometimes can cost a pretty penny. This is one of the toughest limiting factors on many green choices, and clothing is no exception.

    Fortunately, there are always sales. Check with the online companies and watch for weekly discounts and special bargains. Do some research, bide your time, and buy when you can get the very best deals for your dollars.

    Dress Code #5 – The Web is Your Friend

    In addition to the many online shopping opportunities, the Web has an abundance of purely informative websites, with numerous articles available for just about any curiosity that strikes your mind. This includes information on sustainable living in all stripes, clothing choices included. One really great resource that some people just don’t seem to be aware of is the Internet discussion group.

    There are dozens of forums, blogs, and other kinds of communities where like-minded people gather together and find relevant things to talk about, green living included. See if there’s a community that you’re interested in and join up. You may find a great deal on clothing, or learn a cheap way to make patterns for home sewing attempts. The information is out there, ready for the taking.

    Dressing green is about much more than making sure your clothing is made from all-natural, fair-trade materials – though these are very important, too. It’s about a big picture mindset, and about taking many small steps to make the best of everything you have available to you. There is no one step that will make the world green, but rather many small, easy steps that we can all start taking right now.


    About The Author:
    Janet Davis and her husband are health and nutrition entrepreneurs and founders of Mark And Janet, a website with uncompromising, premium products for your health conscious family. For more on going green — Visit us at http://www.MarkandJanet.com/ or check out our blog at http://www.MarkandJanetBlog.com/


    Read more Articles written by Janet Davis.


    The Uses and History of Interior Wood Columns

    By TimothyRevis On January 23, 2010 No Comments

    The history of interior columns follows that of exterior architectural columns, as each was initially a structural necessity. Beginning in ancient times, the use of both exterior and interior columns was pervasive as the large interior spaces required for public functions related to government and religion were restricted by the load that a beam could safely span between two supports. In order to expand interior dimensions and maintain a sense of openness, interior columns or pillars provided the best solution.

    Present day Western architecture is the culmination of an evolution that traces its roots to classical Greece and beyond Greece to the Middle East. The limited amount of wood available in these areas compared with the abundance of stone led to the use of stone as the primary material for columns from this period. The intense labor required for quarrying the stone and hewing it into support shafts or columns was accommodated by the presence of large numbers of slaves in these societies. It is interesting to note, however, that one organic material was abundant: reeds. Reeds were oftentimes bound into round columns. The composition of hundreds of reeds bound into a column provided an excellent distribution of weight that could carry loads equal to stone columns under many circumstances. The early use of reed columns remains with us today as it is generally thought that the fluting of columns is an artistic reflection of the shadowing originally observed on reed columns.

    It is to the Greeks that we owe what is now considered the concept of classical orders. These include the Doric, Ionic, and Corinthian orders. The orders are hierarchical and begin with the simplest – the Doric – and conclude with the most elaborate: the Corinthian. A column, which is essentially a rounded shaft or pier, is composed of three parts: a plinth or pedestal at the base on which rests the shaft that is surmounted by a capital. It is the capital that provides the clearest indication as to which of the orders is presented. In classical architecture, the entire remainder of the architectural ornamentation is tied to the specific capital. This is to say: an ionic capital will have its own set of proscribed motifs for the cornices and pediments as compared to the cornices and pediments designed to compliment a Corinthian capital. Further, within traditional design, a method for combining the orders is available through a vertical observation of the hierarchy. A structure, for example, may use the lowest order – the Doric – on the first level and surmount each of the following levels with the elements from the next highest order.

    During the height of the Roman Empire, the architecture of the ancient Greeks was revered for its refinement. Therefore, the architecture of imperial Rome is a somewhat robust reinterpretation of the more delicate Greek style. Following the fall of the empire, however, the vogue for Greek architecture faded into mists of the middle ages. The use of columns continued of course as a practical structural necessity tending to be heavy shafts of stone without any of the delicate ornamentation associated with Greece. But a new trend began to develop: unlike Greece and the Middle East, continental Europe had an abundance of wood, and wood began to be used in place of stone where practical. Although not serviceable in large cathedrals and stone castles, wood provided a better alternative for columns supporting interior galleries in residences and monasteries. Designs that featured wood columns also figured frequently in the construction of rood screens used in sanctuaries to separate the chancel from the nave in churches from the late medieval period.

    The end of the Middle Ages – roughly the end of the fifteenth century – saw a gradual revival of interest in all things classical. Included in this was an interest in Roman antiquities as an abundance of ruins was available for firsthand viewing. By extension, the Greek influence on Roman society was recognized and a further search for a return to the pure Greek origins became fashionable in the period now known as the Renaissance. There was no immediate desire to precisely replicate the architecture initially, but by the beginning of the eighteenth century a high regard for the republican ideals of Greece paved the way for the complimentary architecture of Greece as well. Beginning in Italy with the rediscovery of the writings of Vitruvius, a Roman architect from the first century B.C., Renaissance architects such as Andrea Palladio strongly promoted the influence of classical architecture to an eager and receptive public in sixteenth century Italy. The trend spread across the continent becoming fashionable in England through the efforts of influential architects such as Inigo Jones whose work with classical architecture during the first half of the seventeenth century was continued and expanded upon by Christopher Wren into the eighteenth century. This set the stage for a period of devotion to classical architecture that continued without interruption into the middle of the nineteenth century.

    Around the beginning of the second quarter of the nineteenth century, the emphasis on classicism in the arts gave way to a new focus on the natural world that was reflected in art, music, writing and architecture. In architecture, this new focus resulted in the dominance of such styles as Gothic revival and Queen Anne, each of which made use of interior wood columns in a variety of ways. Columns appeared as visual keys to the separate functions of large rooms or as ornamental features to draw attention to the opening between rooms. They were occasionally seen in place of the upper termination of a balustrade on a staircase where the handrail would finish into a column that itself would begin a procession of columns across the mezzanine overlooking the staircase and entry hall. Columns were also worked into the built-in features of rooms such as on bookcases and mantelpieces. Although columns had frequently been used during the preceding classical Georgian and Regency periods on mantelpieces, mantel design from that period had strictly adhered to the classical rules of order, viewing the mantelpiece designs as pure architecture. During the mid-to-latter nineteenth century, inventiveness overtook classical adherence resulting in interesting new ways of incorporating wood columns. A primary example is the double-ledged mantelpiece on which the first ledge is supported by columns and then surmounted by a second pair of columns that terminate with a second ledge.

    Classical architecture and an emphasis on the use of traditional features such as columns enjoyed another revival toward the end of the nineteenth century, this time driven by the influential French École des Beaux-Arts. The liberal use of columns was now used in an ornamental fashion having been liberated from use as structural necessities due the development of structural steel substructures that began to absorb the actual loads. This style of architecture was considered the unchallenged standard for fine public and residential architecture up to the time of World War I. Following the war, it began to evolve into a neo-classicism or stylized version of true classicism now strongly represented in this country by the Federal buildings constructed after World War I through the late 1940s. In residential architecture – although often challenged by modernist or minimalist experiments – the preference for classical styles in residential architecture dominated national tastes. From simple middle-class suburban homes to the more elaborate residences of the wealthy, the use of interior wood columns for ornamental purposes are frequently observed. Perhaps by design – perhaps inadvertently – the use of interior wood columns reflected one of the ancient precepts of hierarchy in that they were more frequently used in the finer rooms but not so often in the less public areas.

    The post-World War II era is now mostly associated in commercial architecture for the full adoption of the glass-encased cube of the International style while residential architecture is now remembered for the emergence of the ranch house. The ranch house, with its practical emphasis on lower ceilings and functional room arrangements, offered little opportunity for the use of interior wood columns. By the late 1980’s, however, residential styles began to reflect a shift in taste away from the clean lines and horizontal emphasis of the ranch with a return to a vertical mass including architectural features that had been familiar in the past. Most popular were reinterpretations of the Craftsman, Tudor-revival, and Queen Anne styles along with other two-story structures that offered an amalgamation of various styles with no particular adherence to any particular one. These new styles of residences also incorporated a return to higher ceilings, a greater amount of interior square footage and – more often than not – open interior floor plans. The high ceilings and open floor plans offered perfect opportunities for the use of interior wood columns as a way of breaking up the interior spaces into separate areas without impeding the overall openness that was so appealing to contemporary homeowners.

    This trend in conventional architectural appearance – as opposed to a modernistic feeling – along with the preference for an open floor plan and higher ceilings has continued into the twenty-first century. The most important new component to be added to the mix when compared to trends in the late twentieth century is the emphasis on \”green\” or \”sustainability\” in construction materials and processes.

    The use of interior wood columns for both new construction as well as for remodeling projects offers myriad applications at this point in time. The house designer, homeowner or architect may choose either to adhere to the time honored classical guidelines that were popular during the eighteenth and early nineteenth centuries or to follow the more inventive approach of later periods.

    Where full architectural ornamentation is to be used, it is perhaps best to follow the templates worked out centuries ago as the end results will be more harmonious. Although fewer homeowners have the interest and financial resources to construct residences with full interior architectural ornamentation, there are enough to warrant a review of the appropriate options. To decide whether or not to consider a full treatment, the first question becomes one of layout rather than of size. If you can answer \”yes\” to two questions, then the opportunity exists to consider a full architectural treatment for a residence. First: is the structure balanced and symmetrical? Second: do rooms exist as opposed to an open floor plan? If the answer is affirmative to both of these, the one may well consider following the classical approach.

    This begins with recognizing the concept of hierarchy. Those rooms – usually three – that are nearest the main entrance to the house will receive the finest and most complete treatment while the treatments become progressively simpler for the rooms farther away from the entrance. The typical arrangement for the three rooms is an entrance hall flanked left and right by a living room and dining room. The typical entrance hall in new homes also includes the staircase. If the hall is rectangular front to back, it provides a perfect opportunity to introduce a pair of columns that imply a difference between the entrance hall proper and the staircase hall without visually reducing the dimensions of either area.

    In this situation, the columns may rise from either of two points. Modern trim features reflect the classical elements of ornamented structural necessities. The baseboard corresponds with the plinth; the wainscoting reflects the pedestal. The column may rise from either although absolute perfection requires that it rise from the wainscot or pedestal height. In either case – baseboard/plinth or wainscot/pedestal – one merely turns the baseboard or wainscot into the room in order to create the base from which the wood column will rise. The primary trick of the trade is to ensure that the baseboard or wainscot remain in scale to the room with the remainder proportioned accordingly. A too-skimpy height of baseboard will demean the effect. An example of a well proportioned arrangement for a room with ceilings ten feet tall would be: ten inches for the baseboard; thirty-two inches for the wainscot; fifty-eight inches for the base and shaft of the column; eight inches for the capital; and twelve inches for the architrave, frieze and cornice molding. Rooms of varying height may be apportioned accordingly beginning with about a third of the height given to the wainscot of which approximately a third is used for the baseboard height. The area above the wainscot is then proportioned with about an eighth used for the architrave and cornice with the remainder given to the column and capital.

    The diameter of the wood column is taken from the choice of base. If the column is rising from a plinth created by turning the baseboard out, the column should be slightly thicker in order to keep the additional height in proportion: approximately twelve inches for the room we have just described. If it is rising traditionally from a pedestal at wainscot height, something slightly smaller would be appealing – ten inches would be a good choice.

    Having proportioned the arrangement, one may then turn attention to selecting the particular order. Following the rules of hierarchy, the natural selection would be the highest – the Corinthian order – for the entrance hall. This will not only indicate the capital – the most apparent feature for the order – but will indicate the embellishments as well. The choice of frieze and cornice as well as the door and window trim for the room is keyed to the capital. It is important to note that it is best to follow the full treatment of molding if one is taking this route. This includes embellished over-doors with features such as broken pediments and the inclusion of regularly spaced pilasters that repeat the capital from the columns thereby providing a pleasing rhythm to the space. Half-columns may be used for this purpose as an alternative to the more typical flat-faced pilasters.

    An alternative use of columns in a highly articulated entrance hall is their incorporation into the door moldings. One method for achieving this is to provide a ledge over the door with protrusions or \”ears\” that turn outward at either corner. The baseboards turn out with the same dimensions and columns that flank the doors may rise between the two. These columns are scaled down accordingly and are typically five to six inches in diameter when used this way.

    Wood columns and other moldings are seldom finished in their natural state in entrance halls but are instead more often painted. Most common at present is trim finished in white that offsets the general color scheme on the wall below the architrave and above the wainscot. This mass of pure white, however, can be blinding if a full architectural treatment is used and it is often more pleasant to use something less robust such as an ecru or biscuit tint. In any case, semi-gloss finish is the best choice for painting wood architectural features as the slight gloss shows the flutings and shadows to their best advantage. At various points in time, the molding features have been painted into colors; the entrance hall at Drayton Hall in South Carolina is an excellent example of this treatment. Marbleizing the shafts of the columns themselves may create another pleasing effect.

    As previously mentioned, the rooms that typically adjoin an entrance hall consist of the dining room and living room. To perfectly follow form, it would be appropriate to step the molding down to the Ionic order if the Corinthian has been used in the entrance hall. In either of the two adjoining rooms, the primary option for the use of wood columns is as an element of the mantelpiece. This works best as a variation of the use of columns previously described as door casing embellishment. The baseboard is turned into the room beneath the mantel ledge and turns back to terminate against the marble or stone surround of the fireplace opening. Columns are placed between the ledge and the pedestal created by the turnout. As elsewhere, the capital chosen for the columns will dictate the molding scheme for the remainder of the room.

    The desire to avoid the creation of unused spaces in contemporary residences has led to a trend away from the formal living room that is exclusively reserved for entertainment. As the remainder of the typical new house is arranged in an open-plan style, the area that once served as the formal living room is more frequently designated as a home office or media room that affords a level of privacy otherwise missing in the open plan. These office spaces frequently include bookcases that offer an excellent opportunity for embellishment with columns. Although the current trend tends toward bookcase shelving that runs to the floor, the best designed cases have enclosed cabinets that roughly correspond in height to the wainscot level even when wainscoting is not used. The good sense of enclosed cabinets is that furniture may be arranged against a cabinet wall without impeding access to the bookshelves. Shelf spans on bookcases begin to fail or droop when they are wider than forty-two inches. It is best, therefore, when designing a wall of built in cases to take the entire length and divide it into equal widths of forty-two inches or less. Having done this – and having chosen to construct the actual shelving above cabinet bases – one then steps the bases out about six inches further than the shelving, which is typically ten to twelve inches deep. The stepped-out base creates a natural ledge from which wood columns may be arranged in front of each point where two shelving spaces meet. A repetition of appropriately proportioned columns arranged in this manner creates a very pleasing rhythm. This same effect may be achieved where the base cabinets are the same depth as the shelves by turning the cabinet base out in the same manner the baseboard is turned out for the use of columns that flank door openings or for support of mantel ledges.

    A home office or media room will lend itself to natural finishes, as the overall setup is reminiscent of a paneled library. The use of beautiful finishes such as walnut or dark oak can be extremely pleasing in this setting. An option that may be used to offset the surfeit of wood in such a room would be to ebonize the column shafts on the bookcases or mantelpiece creating an architectural reference to English Regency or French Empire design.

    Although the formalized setting continues to be used in very fine homes at present, the open floor plan remains the standard for most residences. The open floor plan offers all of the spaces traditionally contained within a residential structure but without any of the walls to separate functions such as dining areas or living areas. While the open flow is pleasant, the effect of an uninterrupted space can sometimes be similar to stepping into a gym that has furniture arranged in it – not so pleasant. This is a place where the use of wood interior columns can really solve a problem. The judicious placement of columns in an open plan space can define areas without interrupting the overall openness that many people find appealing. In an open plan, for example, where the dining area is set in a corner near the kitchen area, one can reinforce the dining space by placing an arrangement of columns at the point where the interior corner would occur if walls were in place. It is important to emphasize the word \”arrangement\” as a single column will not quite do the job well. A single column will appear incidental, lonely, or curiously odd. But if a column is placed at the exact corner and then followed with columns that sit at the points where the walls would turn, the effect is sturdy and deliberate. The terminating points of the imaginary walls may be reinforced with half-columns thereby completing the effect without having interrupted the flow or visual expanse of the open floor plan.

    As with the traditional arrangements, rooms with open floor plans also lend themselves to the use of columns as ways of giving much needed visual weight to mantelpieces and bookshelves. From the perspective of scale, these may be \”beefed up\” in order to create a substantial appearance in the larger open spaces they occupy.

    The uses for wood columns in contemporary open rooms have not been fully exploited and are limited only by the imagination. A few guidelines will help achieve a pleasing use. Always use columns in a manner that is structurally logical. Even though wood columns rarely need to actually support any loads, using them arbitrarily and in places where they clearly do not support anything can create a jarring effect. The use of columns previously described to create a corner in a dining area is perfectly logical. You can create the appearance of necessary support by utilizing an architrave between columns to further define a space. The use of an architrave with an elliptical arch between columns is another excellent way of investing a sense of necessity to the columns. Use care when deciding how to finish columns. They create a great deal of visual interest on their own simply by their presence. Over-finishing them can be too much of a good thing. Remember that columns can be useful in reinforcing height: as a vertical presence, they will guide the eye upward. Finally, although a strict adherence to the corresponding elements of a given order is not required, acknowledgment of the keynote indicated by the capital will result in a quiet harmony that is both pleasant and tasteful.


    About The Author:
    This article was written by Timothy Revis of Osborne Wood Products, Inc., which offers a variety of wood architectural products and interior wood columns for Cabinet Companies and Architectural Millwork Companies. They offer 10 different wood types and their products are in stock and ready to ship. Their customer service and design team can also work with you to create a custom column to fit your needs. http://www.OsborneWood.com/


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    Using Flowers to Decorate Your Home

    By LuannHays On January 22, 2010 No Comments

    Everyone wants their home to look at its best… You want it to have a relaxing, inspiring atmosphere that is unique to your own space. Such an atmosphere can be achieved by placing flower arrangements in your home. A pretty bunch of flowers can brighten up any room with a spot of color. Just looking at them can make anyone feel calmer after the stress of the day. There’s something about flowers that cheers people up.

    You must agree that changing your home interior with flowers can bring new spirit to your environment; and without having to spend a lot of money to accomplish it. By adding flowers with a bit of creativity, and taking advantage of the things you already have in your home, you can choose one particular area to change, and….voila! The atmosphere is revived.

    Because color has such an influence over everyday life it can be used to create feelings of warmth to draw you in or coolness to divert attention, depending on the effect you wish to achieve. Our emotions of tranquility and love as well as cheerfulness and sadness can be intensified by blending certain colors together. Careful thought should go into any flower arrangement so as to create the desired effect.

    The color wheel is made up of all the colors and can be very helpful in learning to put colors together. The main colors are called primary colors no other color combination can create these colors red, blue and yellow are the primary colors. All other colors are made from some combination of these three colors.

    The secondary colors are created by combining the primary colors. Orange is made with equal amounts of red and yellow. Green is created with equal amounts of blue and yellow. Purple is made with equal amounts of red and blue.

    Intermediate colors are variations of the secondary colors. For example red orange is made by using more red than yellow, blue green is made by using more blue than yellow, you get the idea.

    Green is a great color to use in flower arranging because green is such a part of flowers in their natural setting. Leaves and stems are all different colors of green, so to start an arrangement with greens can help to give balance to your floral bouquet.

    You can separate the color wheel by warm and cool shades.. Yellow is warm as you move to orange things really warm up, and red is down right hot! On the other hand green is more cool as is purple and blue is the coolest, think ice.

    Using a cooler color like blue as the base of your arrangement can add a very calming effect to the room. Think about sky blue and how comfortable a beautiful summer sky is.

    Purple is the color of royalty and gives that effect when used in an arrangement. Combining purples blues and pinks with a little bit of yellow gives a strong feeling of spring time. Many Easter bouquets use these colors.

    Birthday arrangements and bouquets especially made for babies and small children often have a lot of yellow and pastel colors. These arrangements have a very light aerie feel.

    At Valentines and Christmas the hot passionate color of red takes center stage, red flowers create drama in a floral arrangements. A bouquet of red roses says I love you in every language..

    Orange is not as hot as red, but the color can have a dramatic effect. Orange is associated with the fall season, using the color with gold and brown in fall bouquets is a great way to warm up a space.

    You can change the mood of your arrangement by combining either the lighter more pastel shades or the darker more dramatic shades of each color. This type of arrangement is call monochromatic.

    For even more drama go for a lot of contrast, combining colors like red and purple with yellow and white can make a very bold statement.

    Think of the flowers as building blocks. Each has color, texture and form. They each have a personality and many have a tradition. The rose is elegant and says love. The carnation is sturdy and says you can count on me. The orchid is exotic and dares you to dream.

    Designs such as oval, horizontal, triangular, and vertical are common ways of arranging flowers. A combination of fresh flowers arranged appropriately will produce a nicely crafted finish product that you can be proud of.

    Flowers in three sizes can make a beautifully symmetrical arrangement. Adding greenery, berries, twigs, etc. adds an extra impact. Space flowers evenly inserting the largest variety first. Keeping balance on all sides. Fill bare areas with small flowers. If using floral foam, soak foam in water containing flower food for about 30 minutes. Secure the foam with floral tape.

    Ribbons can add flair and distinction. A colorful ribbon with flowing tails can give character to your arrangement and using holiday colors is an added visual beauty. Using candlesticks on either side of your arrangement is a good Holiday decorating idea.

    In decorating your home, be creative.

    You may be too busy to go out to buy flowers on the streets or in the malls, so you can opt to just have your flowers delivered. It’s easy there are several flower shops online. Why not start decorating your home with flowers now. It doesn’t have to be stressful when you can buy flowers with just one click of a mouse.


    About The Author:
    Luann Hays runs 2 website that offer special items for women. Go to Woozita’s Wares for sexy lingerie and much more. Send Flowers Online, find fresh cut flowers, gift baskets and unique gifts. Visit http://www.woozita.com/ and http://www.flowers-online-flowers.com/ respectively, to learn more.


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    Stainless Steel Library Ladders

    By JayWilson On January 19, 2010 No Comments

    In many of our homes there is a space on a shelf or cabinet towards the ceiling that is typically not utilized and unattainable due to its height. Modern stainless library ladders are made specifically for this reason; to make these shelves useful and accessible, which gives you a variety of options as to what they can be used for.

    The typical and traditional use for library ladders is, of course, in a library. The high stacking shelves maximize space, but those top shelves have always been a hassle to get to with a normal folding ladder. With a sliding, library ladder, the ladder is connected to rails and stays in place as it is rolled from section to section. This is where the ladder got its name from and it has stuck to this day.

    One of the best traits of a library ladder is when not in use the ladder can be rolled out of the way and its stylish design makes it add an element of design to the room that is functional and attractive. Rather than folding up the ladder and taking it to a storage room, a library ladder can be rolled anywhere the rails are connected. Library ladders do still have the capability of being removed and tucked away if needed, but usually the space the ladder is in doesn’t usually require it to be stowed.

    The convenience and ease of use of these ladders is also very popular because anyone is able to use them. Many people aren’t capable of lifting a standard folding ladder and with these sliding ladders they glide across the rails and rollers they rest on and are very user friendly for anyone, regardless of age or size.

    Modern, stainless library ladders are giving new life to the old, wooden ladders that we are accustomed to seeing. The old style of sliding ladder is sufficient in a library setting, but for the home or business owner looking to add an attractive piece to their d


    Ideas on How to Enhance Your Kitchen Design with Beadboard Wainscoting

    By BobFischer On January 19, 2010 No Comments

    Beadboard wainscoting is often associated with older homes, especially since it’s been around since the 1600s, and was originally used to protect walls from damage. It can be found in any room of a house, from bathrooms to hallways to kitchens, where it can cover all or part of the walls. It can be distressed, stained, painted, or even left in its natural wood tone. With so many options, beadboard is a great addition to your kitchen, whether you choose it as an accent or install it more liberally.

    What is Beadboard Wainscoting?

    Beadboard consists of tongue and groove strips of wood that are fitted together and nailed along the wall. The bead, or indentation, that runs between each board is what defines beadboard. This bead can be various widths, depending on the width of the boards themselves and the type of beadboard you purchase. Beadboard wainscoting generally goes partway up the wall, although beadboard can certainly be both vertically or horizontally over the entire wall, if desired. Traditionally, it is placed vertically with a decorative chair rail and molding along the top and bottom, framing the beadboard wainscoting along the wall.

    Although real beadboard is tongue and groove and comes as separate boards, you can purchase sheets of beadboard at lumber yards or home improvement stores. They are available in primed and unprimed, pine, oak or a composite. It’s best, for authenticity’s sake, to choose a real wood product. If you plan to paint the beadboard, pine is the most cost-effective, and primed options will save you a step. The real wood also looks more realistic than the composite sheets.

    Beadboard Wainscoting in the Kitchen: Where Should it Go?

    There are several ways beadboard wainscoting can enhance your kitchen. It can be a focal point or an accent, depending on your taste. For example, if you want it to be a focal point, you can choose to reface your kitchen cabinets with doors that feature a beadboard center. You can also make beadboard wainscoting you backsplash, both of which help draw attention and will define your kitchen’s style.

    For a more subtle approach, consider adding beadboard wainscoting to the outside of your kitchen island or put it along your walls, especially if you have a large, eat-in kitchen that will show-off your beadboard wainscoting addition. If you have a built-in seating, such as a banquette or bench seat, perhaps beneath a window, consider facing it with beadboard wainscoting for a cottage feel.

    Finishing Options for Beadboard Wainscoting

    Beadboard wainscoting does not have to be white, but can be painted to complement your existing kitchen color, perhaps a darker shade if you plan to put it on the wall or highlight seating. You could distress it for an aged, antique look or you might stain it, especially if you plan to use it on cabinet doors or along the outside of a kitchen island, although a painted finish will work well here as well. Of course, if you prefer its natural color, simply apply a clear varnish to it to preserve it and make it shine.


    About The Author:
    Bob Fischer writes about creative applications of kitchen design, and he shares his kitchen ideas and writings with a worldwide readership of home improvement aficionados. Learn more at http://www.kitchendesignsremodeling.com/


    Read more of Bob Fischer’s articles.


    Steel Shed Storage Options

    By BobFischer On January 15, 2010 No Comments

    As possessions pile up throughout the years, shed storage can become a necessary item for many households. Useful in all seasons, the contents may change throughout the year, but remain at a high level of necessity. Sheds are available for the backyard area in all manner of colors, building materials, sizes, and price ranges. It is worthwhile to conduct a fair amount of shopping around before determining the best fit for you.

    Building Materials for Shed Storage

    Depending on the type of objects that will be stored in the shed, as well as what type of climate one is living in, there are a number of building material options that could be suitable for shed storage, including the following options.

  • Wood

  • Steel/Metal

  • Vinyl

  • Plastic

  • If you opt for wood and reside in a rainy part of the world, make sure that the wood has been treated and waterproofed. If garden equipment is left in the shed while still wet, it could lead to the floors and beams rotting, which is certainly not an idea storage solution.

    Different Sizes of Shed Storage

    Picking a shed can be an involved affair, with sheds available in all types of sizing options and different price points. Check in with your local housing supply store or browse catalogs online to get an idea of what is available for the space, which may include:

  • Garden sheds

  • Wood storing sheds

  • Barns

  • Many people make the mistake of picking a shed that’s too small, and then accumulating more items that need to be stored but have no shed storage available. When picking a new shed, it’s probably better to opt for the option that is larger than what you might think you need.

    Building Your Own Shed for Shed Storage

    The type of person who enjoys working on projects may consider building a shed. It is not too much more difficult than building a deck, but will provide years of shed storage convenience down the road. Most at-home builders will want to make use of wood, which is the easiest type of material to work with. There are a few tips to bear in mind when undertaking this type of project, including the following:

  • Make sure to build on a level foundation, either a concrete slab or a level deck area that is constructed first.

  • Skylights help add natural lighting without the need for electricity.

  • Plan for not only what you want to store in the shed now, but potentially down the road, and build accordingly.

  • Making the Most of Shed Storage

    To keep shed storage capabilities maximized for years to come, there are some tips that can help protect an outdoor shed. After buying or building, the following can help the shed stay like-new.

  • Choose waterproof materials.

  • Keep shed maintained and free from cobwebs or clutter.

  • Reorganize perishable items.

  • By making the decision to keep and maintain an outdoor shed, chances are high that life will get easier in the long run.


    About The Author:
    Bob Fischer writes about steel sheds and also covers innovations on the latest metal sheds. Learn more at: http://www.steelsheds.com/


    Read more Articles written by Bob Fischer.


    Outdoor Storage – Steel Sheds

    By BobFischer On January 13, 2010 No Comments

    For homeowners or anyone else who has managed to accumulate a lot of extraneous items and is in need of some extra storage, outdoor storage sheds can be a great solution. There are many options in terms of sizing, materials, and pricing on the market these days, and it is worth taking the time to do a little research into what type of shed could be the best fit.

    Building Materials Used in Outdoor Storage Sheds

    Outdoor storage sheds come in a great deal of materials, including the following:

  • Metal – The sturdiest of materials means your equipment will be safe in any sort of outdoor conditions.

  • Wood – Cedar is a classic type of wood used in the construction of sheds, offering a clean finish, building strength, and woodsy aroma.

  • Vinyl – Vinyl storage sheds are affordable and built to be weather resistant.

  • Plastic – Available in all colors and sizes, plastic sheds are a portable and functional solution to outdoor shed needs.

  • Uses for Outdoor Storage Steel Sheds

    Made to be used year-round, outdoor storage sheds can be utilized for different purposes depending on the season and needs of an individual or family. One can store snow equipment in the summer when there is no need for it, or bicycles and racquetball nets in the winter. Larger storage sheds can be used to store items such as:

  • Crafts

  • Pool supplies

  • Garden gear

  • Tools

  • Old files and office supplies

  • The storage possibilities are essentially limitless, as long as a storage shed is chosen with a durable coating that protects the items from moisture, wind, or sun damage.

    Uses for Barns

    On the grander end of the world of outdoor storage sheds are barns. If there is a lot of room outside and the consumer is in need of extensive storage, barns could fit the bill. Other benefits to barns are their roominess, meaning a barn can be used almost as a recreation or craft room.

    Building Outdoor Storage Sheds at Home

    For the consumer who thinks using a steel shed for storage may be a good idea and knows his or her way around a few basic tools, building outdoor storage sheds is easier than one may think. The following are a few handy tips towards building a long-lasting and durable shed that will accommodate any storage needs.

  • Use treated lumber for support and flooring, as lumber that is not waterproof could lead to internal rot and mildew.

  • Include skylights to keep the shed from being too dark.

  • Use a concrete slab or a deck on wood posts as a base for the shed construction.

  • Practice cutting simple rafters before building the roof.

  • As long as they carefully plan the mode of attack first, many people will find building an outdoor storage shed to actually be a worthwhile and entertaining activity, with extremely useful results.

    Naturally, for those who prefer to purchase their own storage steel shed, there is no shortage of options available to suit every need.


    About The Author:
    Bob Fischer writes about steel sheds and also covers innovations on the latest metal sheds. Learn more at: http://www.steelsheds.com/


    Read more of Bob Fischer’s articles.